DTHH dogbodyanguage

ASPCA handout
caninebody_language

Feeding pets is a big responsibility. They have no choice but to eat that which is put in front of them. If you get it wrong, the effects can be devastating and long lasting.

The basic notion is simple. A pet needs a balanced diet. However, what may be a balanced diet for a bouncy Australian Cattle dog may be just the wrong thing for a sedate and tubby Labrador. What about a young puppy? Should you feed them the same as an adult animal? As for aged dogs, do they need special consideration? To feed your dog correctly you need to provide a different diet for each stage of your pet’s life. You also need to vary your pet’s diet depending on how active it is. For puppies, you should provide a different diet for the large, fast growing breeds than you would give for a smaller breed.

Puppy Feeding
If you have a pup, it will be growing rapidly, building muscles and bones and spending a vast amount of energy with its ‘exuberance of youth’.

Your young pet needs more protein for its muscles, more minerals and vitamins for its bones and active metabolism and more calories due to its exuberant activity and rapid growth than an adult dog or cat.

However, it is important, especially for large breeds of dogs, that they are not over-fed. Your fat roly-poly puppy may look cute and teddy-bear like, but it is likely to have problems with obesity and skeletal problems when it matures. This is because excess food increases the number and size of fat cells that your pet’s body manufactures as it grows. Once your pet has made the excess number of fat cells, the cells won’t go away. They are there waiting to sponge up any excess fat in your pet’s diet.

So, rather than overfeeding pups and kittens, feeding them slightly less than they need is better. You also need to feed them a balanced diet, and if you do, supplementation with calcium or other vitamins is not necessary and could even be harmful. Large breeds need a food lower in calories and minerals to prevent over-consumption of nutrients and, thereby, to prevent bone problems such as Hip Dysplasia.

My dog is fat – what should I do?
Obesity is the commonest nutritional disease in pets. In societies like ours, 25% of humans and from 24% to 44% of dogs are obese. It is interesting that obese people are more likely to have obese pets. Labradors, Cairn Terriers, Cocker Spaniels and Daschunds are the breeds that top the ‘tubby’ list in dogs.

Dogs cannot get fat on thin air. To restore normal weight, decrease the number of calories that your dog is eating and increase the number of calories that your dog is using. The formula is simple – reduce the amount of food or at least the number of calories in the food and increase your dog’s exercise.

Obesity
Obesity in pets is a common problem today but preventing it is mainly using common sense – avoid fatty foods, which can lead to pancreatitis and death in dogs if it has a predisposition to this disease, and adjust your pet’s daily rations according to its appetite, activity levels and waistline. If it is tending towards being ‘curvy’ then you need to look at the amount of food you are feeding, the type of food (including treats), exercise and overall health. Any concerns should be addressed in conjunction with your vet to keep your pet in the best health possible.
Low calorie ‘super-premium’ light diets are available from your vet. Be sure to weigh your dog before starting the diet and then weekly. Set a target weight and work towards achieving that weight in two months. If your pet’s weight has not reduced by the time you weigh it each week, then sack yourself as a pet owner!

My pet is a finicky eater – what should I do?
Many dogs are fussy eaters and some are so fussy that they do not maintain a correct weight. You can try heating the food up in the microwave to bring out the flavours, pouring some warm water over dry food to moisten it and bring out the flavour, add a small amount of vegemite or chicken stock to water and pour over the top. Add in some tuna or sardines to dry food, mix it up, good bye fussy pooch.

Active dogs require the same type of diet as this too. This includes working dogs, racing dogs, show dogs or any pet that is ‘on the go’ all day long.

The easiest way to feed the right diet for these types of pets is, again, to visit your veterinarian and ask for an Active Formula dog food.

Are supermarket brands suitable?
With pet foods, you get what you pay for. The cheaper brands generally have lower quality ingredients with very low digestibility. This means that your dog or cat is unlikely to be able to extract the nutrients from the food. Low price foods are not economical as you have to feed more of them for your pet to get sufficient nutrients. If you feed a cheap brand, the food you put into your pet’s mouth will go through its body undigested. Your dog will then unceremoniously dump the food onto the lawn when it goes to the toilet.

The value of super-premium foods is that they are extremely digestible. This means that you will feed less compared with the supermarket brands, that your pet can extract all the nutrients that are in the food, and that the faeces produced will be smaller, more solid and easier to clean up.

There are differing opinions about what constitutes the best diet for dogs and cats.

Since high quality premium foods deliver all the nutrients required for good health, they are recommended by many veterinarians and breeders. This type of diet doesn’t require any supplements, and is the most convenient to feed, knowing that you are providing good quality nutrition for your pet.

These days the top brand foods do not contain artificial preservatives, and are formulated for different life stages of the animal e.g. puppy/kitten, adult, performance/active adult and senior pet, as they have different nutritional requirements.

However, there isn’t one diet that is going to suit all pets and personal preference is also a factor. Whether you choose a high quality commercial food, home-cooked diet, raw diet, or a combination, the main concern is that it is a complete and balanced diet. Most nutritional problems occur when a diet comprises of only one type of food e.g. all meat, all bones, all vegetables etc. The easiest way to ensure a complete diet is to discuss your pet’s nutritional requirements for its age and lifestyle with your vet before embarking on a feeding program.

The Bone Debate
Raw, meaty bones can be offered daily or every other day to assist in teeth and gum health. Bones are also an excellent way to keep a dog or cat occupied, helping to alleviate boredom when left home alone. However, many vets will recommend not feeding any bones at all because they can cause tooth fractures, intestinal perforations, and food poisoning, as well as get caught across the roof of the mouth (especially chop bones). Overfeeding with bones can also cause constipation.

If you wish to feed bones there are some basic rules to follow:
• Only feed fresh bones straight from the refrigerator to avoid bacterial contamination, particularly with chicken.
• Discard after 1-2 hours if the bone hasn’t been eaten, especially in warmer weather.
• Never feed any cooked bones as they can splinter and cause gut perforation, as well as blockages in the intestine.
• Stick to raw, soft bones as hard bones like the long marrow bones can cause tooth fractures, particularly when sawn lengthwise. Safer choices include lamb necks, flaps, cutlets and shanks, osso bucco, ox tail, and beef spare ribs.
• It is much better if the bones have big chunks of meat attached as this provides excellent jaw exercise as well as flossing for the teeth and gums.
• Chicken necks are preferable to wings as they aren’t as sharp, espeially for larger dogs.

Alternatively, safe chew toys can be used instead of bones to help keep the teeth clean and, in all cases, daily tooth-brushing is recommended.

Vegetables
It is not harmful to feed your dog, or cat, a variety of vegetables in moderation as long as it is receiving a balanced diet. Vegetables and fruits are certainly liked by many pets but keep in mind that dogs and cats digest meat-based diets best. Feed a variety of vegetables rather than a large amount of one sort – orange and green leafy vegetables are best. A whole raw carrot can also help clean the teeth.

Raw Meat
If you are considering feeding raw meat, only use human-grade meat. Unfortunately, many supermarket ‘pet mince’ products contain sulphite preservatives, which can cause a potentially fatal thiamine deficiency in animals fed treated met regularly. Dogs and cats can be fed whole, raw fish (if they are interested) as long as it is fresh and not a poisonous variety of fish. However, only feed fish once a week, including tinned tuna (for human consumption) as overfeeding with fish can result in thiamine (Vitamin B1) deficiency. Commercial pet foods made with fish have thiamine added to prevent this.

Eggs
Eggs are rich in vitamins and minerals, contain protein and are relatively low in fat. They can be fed safely to a normal, healthy dog in moderation; however, repeatedly adding raw eggs to a dog’s diet can cause a deficiency of the vitamin biotin. Raw egg whites contain avidin, an enzyme which ties up biotin (makes it unavailable for absorption into the body). Symptoms of biotin deficiency include dermatitis (inflammation of the skin), loss of hair, and poor growth. Raw eggs are usually fine these days with the incidence of Salmonella being very low, but be aware that Salmonella poisoning can still occur. Use only fresh eggs that have been properly stored to minimise the risk or feed cooked eggs to be safe.

Dairy
Dairy products can lead to gastric upset and diarrhoea as most dogs and cats are lactose intolerant. Cubes of cheese can be used in moderation as training treats and some pets enjoy the odd dollop of yoghurt. Cease feeding if your pet suffers diarrhoea after feeding any dairy products. Lactose-free pet milks are available in the supermarket and are a better alternative, but not a necessary part of the diet.

Coat health
Dogs and cats on a complete, nutritionally balanced and high quality diet do not need to be fed dietary supplements. If the diet is lacking, fatty acid supplementation (omega 3 & 6) can be beneficial for coat and skin health, such as Megaderm which is available from your vet. However, a dry coat could be a symptom of an underlying dermatitis so it would be a good idea to have the animal examined by a vet first.

Illness
Pets with certain illnesses, such as diabetes, kidney problems, liver problems, heart problems, obesity, dietary sensitivity, and cancer have specific nutritional requirements that need to be addressed by a veterinarian. Specially formulated Prescription Diets are available for many medical conditions.

Dangerous foods
Onions in any form are toxic, including dehydrated onions, raw onions, cooked onions and table scraps containing cooked onions. Garlic also contains the same toxic ingredient (thiosulphate) – the toxic dose is not known so it is safest to not feed any garlic at all. Many home-diet recipes for dogs do include one or two cloves of minced garlic. If your dog shows any unusual signs, such as vomiting, diarrhoea, weakness or anaemia then it would be wise to cease adding garlic to your dog’s diet. Cats are more susceptible to onion and garlic toxicity so don’t feed them either.

Avoid potato peelings and any green-looking potatoes. Macadamia nuts are also toxic to dogs – the toxic compound is unknown but the affect of macadamia nuts is to cause muscle weakness. Grape and raisin poisoning has also been reported (kidney failure).

Chocolate in any form is toxic to dogs and other pets. The toxic principle of chocolate is theobromine, a xanthine compound with similar effects to caffeine and theophylline. Clinical signs in dogs include nervousness, restlessness, excitement, tremors, seizures and coma. Cardiac arrhythmias, panting, vomiting, diarrhoea, polydipsia, urinary incontinence and sudden death have also been seen.

Cats and dogs have different nutritional requirements. It is not good for dogs to eat mainly cat food because it is higher in protein and fat than dog food – this can lead to obesity and kidney problems, especially in older dogs and ones with existing kidney disease. Cats have specific nutritional requirements and should not be fed dog food.
Source: petalia.com.au

Poor quality pet foods are common in grocery stores and even in specialty pet supply stores.

They may be tempting to purchase because of the inexpensive price tag for what claims to be a “premium” pet food on the label, but what is really contained in your pet’s food may surprise you.

The use of by-products in pet food is common practice, even among prescription diets. By-products may include connective tissue, beaks and bones, all of which have lower nutritional value and more “filler”. If the ingredient list says “meat by-product meal”, that can mean that it contains meat, bones, and other assorted parts of ANY animal (excluding fur and teeth, except as may “reasonably” be expected during manufacturing).
Another problem with the meat and grain used in most pet food is that they are not approved for human consumption.
That means that the ingredients in pet food are what was rejected from the human food stream for various reasons. Meat is often rejected because the animals were already dead/dying/diseased/disabled (the 4 D’s). Grains can have mold or other contamination. So your brand of dog food may contain chicken meal or lamb meal as the main ingredient, but if the animals from which the meat was taken were deemed unfit for human consumption, do you really want to feed it to your pet?

Finally, many brands of pet food still use BHA, BHT, or ethoxyquin as preservatives
to give the food a long shelf life. Ethoxyquin is actually classified as a pesticide by the EPA, so why would we feed it to our pets? Although there have not been any conclusive studies done, many breeders and vets believe that the accumulation of these chemicals over a dog’s lifetime contributes to cancer and other illnesses that are so prevalent in pets today.

You can avoid all of these detrimental ingredients by feeding a premium pet food that contains only human-quality ingredients and lists specific sources of protein and no by-products. The food should be naturally preserved with Vitamin E (often listed as “Mixed Tocopherols”) and/or Vitamin C.
Source: www.healthydogfood.com

So, the key factor here with your dog’s nutrition is to take in to consideration their size and age and current weight. If you’re still confused speak with your trainer or vet. We only want the best for your ‘kids.’

6 – 8 Weeks – At this age most Vets administer a C3 which covers Canine Parvovirus & Canine Hepatitis & Canine Distemper
12 – 14 Weeks – C5 (NOTE – some vets only offer C4 at this age which does not cover Bordatella (kennel cough)). C4 only covers the viral component of Kennel Cough (parainfluenza).
16 – 18 Weeks – C5 Vaccinate against Canine Parvovirus & Canine Hepatitis & Canine Distemper & Canine (Kennel) Cough & Bordatella
Canine Parvovirus Canine parvovirus causes severe, debilitating disease in dogs of all ages. Young puppies are most susceptible to infection and the development of severe disease. Dogs and puppies can die within days of contracting the disease. Signs of parvoviral infection include vomiting, diarrhoea (usually containing blood), severe abdominal pain and depression. Canine parvovirus can remain in the environment for over 12 months. All dogs should be vaccinated.

Canine Distemper Distemper is a highly contagious and deadly viral disease affecting dogs of all ages. This virus attacks the nervous system and typical signs include fever, discharge from the eyes and nose, respiratory problems, loss of appetite, skin reactions, vomiting, diarrhoea, muscle spasms and convulsions. Dogs that do recover from this disease may have thickened foot pads, damaged teeth, permanent brain damage and progressive paralysis. All dogs should be vaccinated.
Canine Hepatitis Canine hepatitis is a highly infectious disease which causes liver damage in dogs. Puppies are most at risk and signs of infection include fever, ocular lesions, respiratory signs, jaundice, depression, lack of appetite, diarrhoea and abdominal pain (due to liver enlargement). The virus is passed by contact with infected dogs and through contact with the urine of infected dogs. It can continue to infect dogs for months after apparent recovery from disease. This virus can also cause long-term kidney and liver problems in older dogs. All dogs should be vaccinated.
Canine (kennel) Cough (Bordatella) This is a disease complex caused by a variety of viruses and bacteria. It is not confined to kennels as the previous name suggests. The two most important causes of Canine Cough are considered to be parainfluenza (Type II) virus and the bacteria,

Bordetella bronchiseptica. This disease is typified by a persistent hacking cough. It is not usually fatal but it causes significant distress to the dog and owner. Some animals will stop eating and may become depressed and lethargic. Canine cough can be treated with antibiotics, nursing and rest, however, it is best to try to prevent the disease in the first instance.
Note : All dogs attending day care must have their C5 vaccination and is also recommended for training.

Visit VCA’s Companion Dog Club page, here you’ll find a list of dog clubs with rescue groups.

THE ADOPTION DIRECTORY

These groups, organisations and breed clubs run rescue programs to re-home dogs that for one reason or another (see FAQ, right) have been surrendered by their owners.

Many are committed to a particular breed or type of dog and can help you choose the right dog for your age and stage of life. They will be honest and realistic in assessing the suitability of their rescued dogs for your lifestyle.

If you are interested in adopting a rescued dog, please contact the appropriate club below – listed alphabetically by breed. If you’re not sure what type of dog is best for you, fill out an Adoption Application and we’ll help you with your search. You can also try using Select-A-Pet for an idea of several suitable breeds.

These groups work very hard to make sure their dogs go into a loving, permanent home so please be patient and understanding as it may take some time to determine if a particular dog is right for you. It will definitely be worth the wait!

If you are interested in buying a puppy, please visit the DOGS Victoria breeder’s directory.

Dogs hold a very special place in the hearts of millions of Australians. Dogs and owners can do so much together – go for walks, play games or simply share a quiet snooze in the sun, and research has also shown that owning a pet can have measurable health benefits. Overseas research has shown that adults and children are more relaxed in the presence of a friendly dog and that pet owners suffer less minor health problems such as headaches, backaches, colds and flu, insomnia and general tiredness than non pet owners.

Medical research in Australia has found that pet owners have a lower risk of heart attack, having lower cholesterol, lower blood pressure and lower triglyceride fats in their blood than non pet owners. When obtaining a dog particular attention should be paid to the type of dog with respect to the size of your yard, the amount of exercise the dog will receive and the amount of time available for grooming. If you wish to obtain advice on selecting an appropriate type of dog, contact the Petcare Information and Advisory Service and use the SELECT A PET program to decide the type of dog best suited to your household. To obtain a pure-bred dog contact DOGS Victoria. Alternatively, animal welfare societies will have healthy puppies, as well as older dogs requiring new homes.Remember to celebrate your relationship with your pet on St Roch Day October 4th – the Feast Day of St. Francis of Assisi, the patron saint of animals.

Bringing your new dog home
Whether you dog is a cross bred or a purebred it still requires the same care and attention.

Before bringing your new puppy home ensure that you are able to keep the dog securely confined to your own property. Decide whether the dog is to live outside or be allowed inside the house. For the first few nights the puppy will fret for the company of its litter mates and may whimper during the night. Make sure that the puppy has a snug, warm and secure bed in a confined area.
When you bring your puppy or dog home make sure the house is quiet and allow it to settle in without too much interference. Once your puppy or dog has settled in to its new home it should be familiarised with all the normal household noises and activities and introduced to visitors to ensure that it becomes confident and well socialised. Other pets should be introduced to the new arrival slowly and under close supervision. Feeding
To maintain your dog’s health and well being it must have a balanced diet. Puppies and dogs fed an all meat diet will develop nutritional deficiencies and growth problems. The most reliable and convenient way to provide a balanced and palatable diet is to feed high quality prepared dog food, both canned and dry. Puppies have different nutritional requirements to adult dogs and for this reason it is essential to feed your puppy with specially formulated puppy foods in canned and dry forms. Cows’ milk is unnecessary and may cause diarrhoea. Commercially prepared pet milk with low lactose is available. Puppies need frequent small meals and for details of appropriate amounts to be fed for your dog’s age refer to the feeding guides on the packaging of the prepared products or follow the recommendations of your veterinarian. Any changes to diet should be made gradually over several days. Water is essential to your dog’s well being and clean water must be available at all times. Your dog should have its own sturdy food and water bowls which should be placed near the sleeping area. Puppies and dogs enjoy chewing on large raw bones but remember never to offer cooked bones or those likely to splinter. Dental hygiene
Clean teeth are important for healthy gums and fresh breath. Some dog’s teeth need more attention than others. Ask your veterinarian for the best approach for your dog. It may be a regular check up and cleaning, tooth brushing, feeding large raw bones or giving specially designed chews. Health care
Dogs are hardy animals but require a few precautions to ensure they remain healthy.

NOW YOUR PUPPY IS AN ADULT

So you’ve chosen and purchased your puppy and now he has become an adult and perhaps you feel your work is done. Not so! Your dog still needs you and the loving attention you gave him as a puppy. He still needs your companionship, a warm dry bed, good food and water, veterinary care, exercise and training, grooming and bathing. In fact your dog considers himself to be your very best friend and how do you treat your best friend?

All dogs look forward to the time spent with their families and friends. It is so sad to see the once important puppy relegated to the back garden never seeing and enjoying new people, places or new smells and adventures.

Sleeping
But first things first. Your adult dog also needs his own space. He should be provided with a warm bed in a draught free place. If your dog does not live in the house with the family perhaps his special place could be the laundry or garage or even water proof kennel in the garden with a nice tree for shade in sunny weather.

Kennelling
Ideally, the kennel should have its own enclosure with wire fences, (high enough to be jump proof), with a concrete floor for cleanliness and dig proof. This is an ideal set up for the dog that spends his time alone while the family is at work and school. There is nothing worse than a lonely bored dog roaming the back garden looking for mischief and barking at every thing that moves both day and night. Great way to get off side with the neighbours!

Food and water
Your dog to be energetic, fit and well needs a good balanced diet. Whereas a puppy is fed 3 to 4 times daily, an adult dog only requires 1 meal a day, or if you prefer, 2 smaller meals. A dog must always have access to clean, fresh water. There are numerous types of dog food on the market – dry food, like small pellets, tinned food or fresh meat or chicken mixed with vegetables, rice and pasta. Bones are good – always raw. Not only does your dog enjoy a good old chew, they are good to clean his teeth and provide different nutrients. Don’t worry if he buries them and digs them up when they have “matured” to ripe perfection and then offers them to you to share with him in the house! It is always good to keep your dog in good hard condition by sensible feeding and exercise. Remember the over fed and under exercised dog becomes fat and indolent – this shortens his life span and this does him or yourself no favours. The feeding guides on the prepackaged food are a guide to his needs and provide the necessary balance of protein, carbohydrate, fats, minerals and vitamins. Remember a dog likes variety too so try a few little treats like sardines, cheese -even the table scraps provide a bit of “human” food.

Exercise
Exercise goes hand in hand with feeding. All dogs just have to go for a walk with one or all members of the family and a trip in the car is their delight. There are excellent harnesses available to keep both you and your dog safe whilst driving. If you can manage the time, twice a day is ideal, but always on a lead. In this day and age some parks are off limits to dogs, even on leads. It is wise to check and find the park in your area where dogs are welcome both on and off the lead. He loves to wander off sniffing and following a scent, playing ball or catching his Frisbee. Always remember to take a plastic bag to clean up after your dog and deposit the droppings bag in the bin. If, we, as dog owners are careful in this respect and the streets and parks are kept clean and in turn the gutter streams and rivers are kept free of pollution, our dogs will be welcome members of the community.

Grooming
You should groom your dog for 5 minutes every day so it always looks neat. Dogs with longer hair will require more grooming than dogs with short hair to prevent matting. Dogs that do not shed should be clipped every few months to keep their coats under control. Most breeds have a major moult once or twice a year, and at that time will require extra grooming.

Check ups

Step 1.
Start with your dog sitting in front of a small chair (depending on their size) or something that is stable enough for them to lean on.

Reward her for a nice calm stay.

Step 2.
Touch the chair with your finger until your dog puts one paw up on the chair. When she touches it tell her “paws up” and reward her. You may need to lure her with a treat if she wont naturally put her foot on the chair. If this is the case put the food in your clenched fist and touch the chair, she will reach over to get the food and will put her paw up at your hand, when her paw touches the chair, say ‘paws up’ and reward her. Repeat many times until she understands ‘paws up’ means her paw needs to touch the chair. If she jumps up go back to the start and have her sit in a calm stay and repeat. When she is reliabley touching the chair now is the time to get her to leave her paw on the chair. Say ‘paws up’ and ‘stay’, even if you get 1 second reward her for this. Gradually work up until you can get a few seconds.

Step 3.
When she is able to get one paw up we now need to teach her how to get two paws up. Take the food lure a little above and behind her head so that she has to reach for it, alot of dogs will naturally go into a beg type pose and will lean on the chair for support, if this happens say ’2 paws up’ and reward. You can also go back to the way you taught ‘paws up’ and touch the chair with your food lure, she will give you one paw but eventually will bring that second paw up. Remember when the dog is not understanding something its probably because we’re confusing them. Dont be afraid to go back and start again, taking each step slowly. Once she is putting both paws up get her to hold them there with a stay.

Remember – if you’ve been trying for a long time to get your dog to do a particular trick and she learns it, let her know that she has done something really special by jackpotting her with her rewards.

Sit on the ground with him. Once he is calm in the drop position take a piece of food and lure his nose down to the ground, ensure your hand is just enough away from his face that he needs to reach a little so that he doesnt just just put his nose to the ground.
When he reaches for the food and his chin touches the ground say sad, bridge him and then reward him.

Repeat this a few times. Remember to have a rest and make the exercise fun.

When you practice again, this time hold your hand on the ground for a second longer so that he has to wait a little longer, say ‘sad’, bridge and reward.

Repeat until he understands that he needs to leave his chin touching the ground. Your hand signal can be similar to that of the drop position.

At first some dogs wont like sitting on a cool mat. They can feel ‘squishy’ to the dog as the crystals have expanded. They will need to be taught how to accept the mat.

Remember to make the experience a fun one and reward the positive actions.

First of all we’re going to go back to basics and lure the dog with a piece of food. Tell him go to mat while you are luring him. As soon as his front feet step on to the mat, bridge and reward your dog.

Second we need to get them to step their 4 feet on to the mat by luring them. Remember to say ‘go to mat’, bring your hand further along the mat so they follow the hand further along and reward when all 4 feet are on the mat.

Next we want to get them to sit or drop or even better bow. If your dog can bow the cool sensation will be less of a shock if their chest touches the ground before their bellies. While they’re standing in the middle of the mat ask for a bow, sit or drop. Reward immediately. If they stay reward again and ask for a stay. If they jump up start the process again.